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Food & Drink Reviews

bierrex.jpg Bar food review> Bierrex
 

Chloe Corkhill visits the recently opened Bierrex to indulge a penchant for bold stateside flavours, while soothing away the sorry results of the previous evening’s excesses. Win win.

Some places are the right places to go with a hangover. Not that Bierrex bills itself as a hangover heaven. Officially, it’s a ‘Smoke and Tap house’, which means they smoke their meat and have a lot of very good beer to choose from. Booze-addled minds and bodies rejoice – Bierrex has everything you need, and more. The big, meaty, satisfying dishes of American cuisine are enjoying a British renaissance; after all, there’s only so much quinoa and kale one country can take. Here in Bierrex’s hallowed cathedral of tasty, gusty goodness, pork is pulled, chunky ribs are rubbed with spiced salt, and hickory smoke gently seduces prime beef into tender surrender. The menu is mercifully simple. There’s a range of sour dough and brioche buns filled with all sorts of irresistible morsels – pork, fennel and chilli sausage anyone? Dill pickle and brisket? Spicy pork? Then there’s a comprehensive range of ‘Fries and Things’ to accompany the buns – fat chips, skinny fries, sweet potato fries etc. All worth a nibble. Next, there are the tantalising treats that emerge from The Smoker itself. This is where we stuck our drawing pin. My friend and I ordered Glenarm Brisket (£12), which is rubbed with mustardy, spicy warmth before being placed lovingly inside The Smoker, emerging 14 hours later oozing with melt-in-the-mouth deliciousness. We also tucked into the Pulled Pork Plate (£12), an apple-moist, oaky pile of juicy, moreish meat accompanied by crispy garlicky toast and zingy dill pickle. Divine. Dishes ordered from The Smoker come with sides – super or standard. There are Collard Greens, BBQ Beans with Rib Tips, Smokey Corn Cob and more to choose from. I ordered Mama’s Mac and Cheese, mainly because I have a recurring nightmare where I am both hungry and hungover. Thankfully, the portion was generous, the pasta yielding and the sauce super cheesy. We also tucked in to Mustard Slaw – fresh, creamy coleslaw packed with hot Dijon mustard and home-blended mayo – and the Smoked Veg Stack, a hot mess of mozzarella, aubergine and tomato, in the best possible sense.  Along with the deep flavours, the fine ales and some exceptional suppliers, Bierrex also boasts more than its fair share of aesthetic finesse. Gorgeous parquet flooring, pastel hued original panelling, fab graphics and a very pleasing expanse of creamy marble on which to rest your pint all contribute to a general feeling of easy opulence. The perfect ambiance for the recently sated, full-to-the-brim, vaguely hungover person considering another drink…

Bierrex, 82 Pilgrim Street, Newcastle. facebook.com/bierrex